Fashion Over Reason: The Beginning of the End

Saturday, March 2, 2013

The Beginning of the End

Paris fashion week is in full swing and since i've been recapping the shows thus far, why stop now? It's hard to believe that it has almost been an entire month since the New York collections started, it really flew by. So without further ado, let's start with what i've seen and liked as of now.

Dries can really do no wrong -- every season, his collection is truly masterful. His aesthetic is consistent and instantly recognizable, yet you get the sense that he's alwway bringing something new to the table. His is one of the Parisian shows i always most look forward to.

I also have to give it to Alex Wang: i really enjoyed his first, burningly anticipated collection for Balenciaga. I thought it was super chic, elegant, exuded grace and referenced the shapes Cristobal made famous. His usual edge seemed to have played hooky, but something tells me it will be back in attendance in the near future.

In the Balmain camp, it was all one giant glitz-fest, almost like if princess Jasmine and the entire female cast of Dynasty had a love child. And yet, somehow it works because Olivier Rouesting just owns that vision. But i was mostly into the details of this collection: the quilting on the leather, the contrast between the exaggerated draping and extremely sharp silhouettes, the giant earrings, the patterns in the pants. Those elements kind of tied all of it together for me and that's where it came to make sense as a whole.

I've got one thing to say about Lanvin: that A M A Z I N G charcoal long-sleeve satin slip dress on Karlie. My heart jumped out of my chest. There was something so sensual and boudoir-like about this collection, makes you wonder what Alber had on his mind. I also don't remember really ever seeing outerwear come down Lanvin's runway -- it did this week and it was exquisite.

Rolant Mouret: a lesson in geometry? Color blocking power woman is my take.

Isabel Marant goes dark! Lots of black, charcoal, navy and when it was light: monochromatic. A more mature -- but still ever so sexy and easy -- girl in the Marant camp this season, if you ask me.

Rick Owens was every bit the warrior princess aesthetic we are accustomed to. The layers were brilliantly piled on and his mastery of the "Rick Owens Look" is stronger than ever.

As for Dior: refinement incarnate. Raf really took the theatrics out of the House (praise the lord for that, IMHO) and the elegance right back in. His vision is sharp, beautiful, concise and through it all: fresh and youthful.

Dries Van Noten
Roland Mouret
Isabel Marant
Rick Owens
Christian Dior


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