See part I
See part II
See part III
I don't think anyone really paid attention to the Hugo Boss label -- a bit of a sleepy brand, famous mostly for its menswear and evocative of office clothes -- until now. When one of New York's budding design stars gets tapped to helm another house, you can bet that everyone perks up. It goes without saying that Jason Wu was going to want to excavate the brand's core, its DNA, if you will, the result being an extremely precise and rigorous exercise in tailoring and menswear-influenced looks. His famous feminine design sensibility (after all, he's the Mobama gown guy!) was felt too, with low-cut dresses and accentuated waists, but I have a feeling that he is putting it in reserve for future collections. It felt more like Wu was laying the groundwork for what's to come next, which is sure to be grand, if we look at his track record.
I always pay attention to Jenni Kayne's line because I'm always into her designs. Her girl is cool and never fussy. This season, her double-breasted suits were appealing, fresh and grown-up in a good way.
There was absolutely no doubt in my mind that this collection was going to be epic after I spotted the sign with the model instructions backstage reading: You Are Big Sur Beautiful and New York Glamorous. Big Sur ease? New York fabulous? Who wouldn't love to see how laid-back, romantic Northern California and luxurious, face-paced city life would converge? The apex of that: cashmere jogging pants, incredibly sumptuous oversized knit cardigans, daytime chiffon, various forms of fur... It spoke to me in many ways, including the soundtrack -- Neil Young, Mamas & the Papas, chords from Oscar Isaac's and Marcus Mumford's rendition of Fare Thee Well -- it purveyed a 70s boho vibe in a way that was polished, but oh-so-cool, invoking Marianne Faithfull and Charlotte Rampling in their heyday... Or better yet, if they were icons of the aughts. To sum it up rather unprofessionally: it was ridiculously exquisite
Narciso's minimalistic approach to clothing is always spellbinding to me. His woman is not the fussy type withe her clothing, but she is far from boring. She appreciates cuts, tailoring, beautiful materials. His fall 2014 collection was nothing short of sculptural and precise, which is what we love from the man. Loose silhouettes were modern and interesting, while bouts of geometric color-blocking kept it fun, youthful and on-trend, without ever lacking rigor.
Oscar de la Renta
ODLR, king of Park Avenue, seemed like he was trying to dethrone Herrera or Armani from the Academy Awards red carpet, too. When a lot of young designers are focusing more on sportswear, you can always count on mister de la Renta to bring you right back up to his cloud of fantasy, femininity, glamour and polish. His clothes are certainly not for every day (I don't know about you, but I don't know anyone who is that fancy), but boy are they exquisite. His runway (opened -- and closed -- by none other than Karlie, yet again) began with separates in the form of a beautifully tailored and modern-looking pinstripe suit, chunky knitwear with cool trumpet skirts, even throwing us a curveball with his use of leather. It wasn't long before stunning gowns took over and there was nothing else to do but bask in their glory.
Sophie Theallet won the CFDA fashion fund in 2009, which is the reason I am curious to see what she comes up with every season. Hers is not a label that attracts hoards of commotion -- which is all fluff, anyway -- but the work is good, so who cares? Her stance is usually on the sweeter side of feminine, but for fall she injected a dose of sex appeal to her collection. I especially appreciated her use of asymmetry and high slits.
Reed Krakoff is one of the show I anticipate the most at NYFW. You guessed it: his clean design approach sold me a few years back. While the majority of his cohorts focused on outerwear this season, he centered his attention on separates that comprise an outfit. I was delighting in his use of different textures, making things extra interesting: leather with chunky ribbed knits, satin with perhaps what was a wool-blend jersey, python prints with fur, brocade and voile. It was all so believable.
Do you have any favorites so far? Tell me!