See part I
See part II
See part III
See part IV
Francisco Costa is pretty much the king of minimalism, clean lines, and almost sterile monochrome dressing (i mean that in the best way possible, truly). He certainly threw us all curve ball this time around: his fall offerings were kind of grungy (skirts with Docs!) and had a near -- dare I say -- granola sensibility. The knits and jackets, however Woodstock-y they felt, were the chunky cozy kind that inspires cocooning at its finest. The long, fluffy cream coat was a particular standout for me.
Elizabeth & James
The Elizabeth & James line has been consistent over the years in giving cool girls excellent options. They weren't about to change their game this time around. In fact, they refined it and instead of going the denim-heavy route, their pieces had a dressier appeal. Not dressy as in fancy, but less SoCal and more urban dweller. I'd certainly wear all of it.
To say this show was highly anticipated would be a grave understatement, if only due to the fact that it was Marc's first after leaving Vuitton to focus more on his own label. The whole fashion world was watching with bated breath and he was extremely successful at reeling us into his world. Speaking of breath, Jacobs decided to forego music entirely and have his models walk to a Jessica Lange voice-over, repeating something along the lines of "Goodbye sad world, hello new world, happy days are here again" (it's apparently a song made famous by Barbara Streisand and Judy Garland). From the ceiling were suspended hundreds of clouds, offering the perfect complement to the breathy, woozy soundtrack. It was like the tangible sensationalist version of those dream sequences you often see interpreted on TV. With the haunting repetition coming from the speakers: cloudy days are gone, the picture was complete. Was this the metaphor for Jacobs' silver lining, saying good bye to the sad world of LVMH? It was impossible not to think that was the not-so-subtle message he was propagating. Could I be digging too deep? You be the judge... Moving on to the actual fashion; the palette never veered too far from beiges and subtle pastels, acting as the final piece of the peaceful puzzle. The clothes were literal but not in an obnoxious way: some of the dresses were adorned with floaty layered appliqués , flowing gracefully down the catwalk, while even his shearling and fur bombers mimicked fluffy, cloudy shapes. Marc Jacobs was on cloud nine, stripping all the superfluous and going back to basics.
The Marchesa collection isn't what I would consider to be ready-to-wear per se, nor would I normally have much interest in their collection because they only do fancy dresses, but with a show this exquisite, I couldn't resist. The dresses were intensely gorgeous but not in an overly precious way. It was eveningwear for the modern -- dare I say cool -- girl with a very posh party (Oscars?) to attend. Beautiful in every way.
If the music was any indication, Jack and Lazaro designed a collection for the urban working girl who's got places to go. A kick-ass remix of Missy Elliott's Work It was blaring and the models donned sharply tailored and incredibly architectural pieces, as perhaps a nod to the city she calls her playground. There was a lot of Pollock-style print mixing (or was that crackling marble?), hardwood floor-looking patterns, structured everything: it was the evolved Proenza girl.
Can you say classic elegance? Yes, yes you can. Ralph Lauren is such a master at what he does -- he picks a theme and runs with it, to infinity and beyond. For fall 2014, he wants his woman in regal pastels, luxurious cozy materials, never overdone. There was a certain serene quality thanks to the softness of how it all felt as a whole. This collection was like a beautiful, warm, soft breeze and I just want to wrap myself in literally every single look.
This designer's unfussy approach to style doesn't make you wonder why he's been dressing the cool (and unpretentious) downtown girls for years. The writing's on the wall: he keeps it as consistent as I do my hair color. This isn't luxury, nor is it a high fashion moment, it'd just stylish clothes that the hip crowd wants to wear, myself included.
T by Alexander Wang
Alex Wang has outerwear on his brain, there's no doubt about it. His main line was rich with different iterations of luxurious coats, and now his diffusion offerings are just as heavy in overgarments. While the former was a complete fashion panoply, the T collection gave us super sporty options in a similar color palette and pops of neon. The message seemed quite similar though: his woman was more than ready to brave to elements.