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Dries Van Noten
The man knows how to design. He does print, layering, fabric and accessories like no one else. This time around, it was all very ladylike psychedelic, a sort of unhinged experiment with appliqués, metallic embellishments and pattern play. There was a very artsy quality to it, as there always is in a Dries collection, and he bold graphics and digital-looking hawaiian prints as his main direction.
It was Alessandro Dell'Acqua's first collection for the house of Rochas, after a very successful run by Marco Zanini, who has gone on to design for the recently revived Schiaparelli. The Dell'Acqua touch was very recognizable in this lineup: the man loves his embellishments and the clothes were liberally scattered with them throughout, mostly on very voluminous garments. It was very ornate and rich-looking, like only an Italian could make.
This collection very much blurred the line between hard and soft: on one hand, there was a lot of draping, as well as loose silhouettes, while on the other, certain looks were incredibly structured and reminiscent of origami art. Furthermore, safe for the grey felt-looking fabric, the whole thing telegraphed much more of a spring vibe than a fall one. Tulips were a recurring theme -- the flower of spring. Bright green (which was a bit offensive to me, sorry) also held a starring role, and it all just looked really airy. The thing I did like about it was that it looked completely unfussy.
Alex Wang is really evolving before us. He had such big shoes to fill when he took the job at the famed French house, but his confidence appears to be at an all-time high. He did a splendid job at exploring the iconic cocoon shape of the brand, reincarnating it in way was that were fresh and new. Cristobal Balenciaga was actually an architect before he founded his fashion house and therefore structure will always be a part of its DNA. So while implementing it for fall 2014, he balanced it all with beautiful, experimental tech knitwear, slim trousers and touches of neon. I'd say it was the Wang-iest Balenciaga so far.
The designer that has ben making waves in recent seasons is all about ambulatory sex. His girl is, repeat after me: S E X Y. She shows off her legs, she wears the highest slits, she loves leather, she does plunging necklines. But she's tough, effortless and cool as hell. Vaccarello referenced the 80s for fall 2014, but not in a literal way. It was all very modern, and at times, a little Balmain-ish, but with a more wearable quality to it. He also introduced cozy layered looks and while they offered his woman some coverage, they were just as sexy and undeniably signed by him.