See part IV
See part III
See part II
See part I
See New York
Never content to just rely on the cachet of the Chanel name, Karl always comes up with some crazy idea that makes the famous house's show the most coveted ticket of the entire fashion season. This time around, he envisioned what every girl's (fashion-obsessed or not) dreams are made of: a Chanel supermarket. One can barely fathom the hours slaved over building this meticulously constructed set, all everyday stocked items cheekily renamed à la Chanel. It was gimmicky with a purpose: calling all of its attendees and worldwide clientele out on their compulsive consumerism, certainly. But as Lagerfeld himself once declared: "at Chanel, the money we throw out the window [referring to these exorbitantly elaborate and expensive fashion shows] comes back right through the front door" -- or something along those lines. Point well taken. But wait, there were also clothes! Tweed is the house's most iconic figure and there was loads of it here, in a multitude of shapes and fits. While most fabrics were luxe and superbly cut, the actual fashion (the styling) felt a bit scattered, mostly piled on, eclectic and clumsy. It was as though he was taking his parody full-circle with his grocery store patrons -- in this case, the models -- dressed like the rest of us when we make a trip to the store (think about it).
Mr. Valli is a master at intricately ornate and sculptural feminine clothes -- pants are not his thing and more power to him. His woman is sensual and not bashful about being girly, in fact, she revels in her femininity. That doesn't mean she lacks any edge, however. The dresses were itty bitty but oh so elegant, the materials cool and lust-inducing. The collection had a softness to it, too, with lavenders, roses and creams being prevalent.
If you at all followed this year's award season in Hollywood, you may have noticed that there was a lot of Saint Laurent on the red carpet. Both men and women, all in some form of tuxedo (most famously worn by Angelina Jolie). So Hedi has unequivocally become the go-to guy for the actor (both genders) that craves a little rock 'n roll (as well as actual real rock stars, for that matter). It's been made very well known that his desire to remain in LA while at the helm of one of fashion's most legendary French houses has been manifested almost literally in the collections he's put out since he took the role. The infamous LA rock 'n roll spirit was still very much palpable for fall 2014 and his girls are musician themselves or girlfriends of the band. After all, rock stars only date supermodels, right? The clearest message here: these clothes were not cut for the bougie set.
Stella, you saucy minx, you! Ending her show in a series of minnier-than-thou mini dresses with slinky tassels was the brazen stella we all know and love. But it wouldn't be Stella without an element of pure comfort to add perfect balance -- in this case, fun foam-elevated oxfords. Earlier in the show came big cozy knitwear, cool metal-looking rope embellishments and sporty silk tunics, which were all elements that rendered the collection very youthful and dynamic.
The Valentino house is thriving thanks to the pair that is Pier Paolo and Maria Grazia. Their touch breathes new air, an undisputed regal sensibility to every single collection they put out, but this one felt like a step above what they've already established. While they show in Paris, Valentino is indeed an Italian label and there was no mistaking that for fall 2014. While the show started with funky, colorful patterns that were straight out of Swinging London, it progressed organically into an enchanted forest of delicate bedazzlement, sheer floaty fabrics appliquéd with birds, intricate embroideries evocative of tree branches enveloping the body, sculptural flower-full necklines. When trying to find a word to describe the whole thing, exquisite comes to mind.