If you want to reminisce on all of the collections that I talked about this month, dating back to NYFW, head straight to my FW14 Pinterest board.
See part V
See part IV
See part III
See part II
See part I
See New York
There are indisputable truths in this world, and one of them is that you can always count on an Alexander McQueen collection to knock your socks off. Faithful to the house's codes, there was an abundance of creativity, Sarah Burton reeling us into the world she imagined the McQueen woman in for next fall. The girls looked like tribal warriors, members of a savage, incredibly well-dressed clan. Rigidity is part of the label's DNA, construction and tailoring having been Lee McQueen's greatest skill, yet the balance was always there, injecting his designs with fluidity, femininity and grace (this particular collection springs to mind). Case in point: big, wild furs, ornate brocades, armor-like jeweled appliqués were all contributing factors to the fierceness of the pack. However, amongst all the heavy fabrics were outings of delicate white organza dresses evocative of Snow White. They allowed a break from all the darkness and made us imagine that perhaps, there was a princess on the loose in that dark forest, wild with obscure creatures. This is the art of storytelling in fashion form.
Hermès is a house with such a legendary background that it's impossible not to think of it as the very summit of luxury. Old money. Understated. Exclusive. Extreme elegance. This collection offered the usual suspects in that classically refined category. De bon goût is how I would summarize it. Looking at these impeccable slouchy suits, long overcoats and drapey wool jersey, I couldn't help but try to imagine just how incredibly luxe these fabrics must look like in person. The woman who wears these clothes exudes wealth, without so much as flashing anything. As I said, luxury personified. For fall 2014, he hinted at certain exotic locales with folkloric references: an embroidered midi dress topped with a long shearling vest, a croc-embossed leather top, a draping tunic reminiscent of Marrakech.
Perhaps THE most anticipated show of the season: it was Nicolas Ghesquière's first collection since abruptly leaving Balenciaga a few seasons back. So how would Louis Vuitton, made so famous at the hand of Marc Jacobs, look like with the touch of the Ghesquière genius? In short, it was the perfect blend of a famous house's roots with the edge of an acclaimed designer knowns for his futuristic approach. Ironically, the collection had a 60s vibe, with nary a skirt that fell below the knee. The construction, details and color palette, however, were modern as can be and it was sexy like he does sexy: form-fitting, hints of skin here and there (leg factor withheld), high waists on skintight pants, sensual materials. It was less vampy and more French, capital F. I'd be buying a lot of these pieces if my bank account allowed it. The show made me crave more and anticipate the next season already -- surely, I am not the only one.
It's inevitable that one might compare the Miu Miu collection, which is always one of the last of the month, to its big sister, Prada. Not compare as in see if there might be a correlation between the two, but see how much further Miuccia's imagination has gone. For fall 2014, she brought us something incredibly mundane but twisted just right like only she could do. Nylon windbreakers, in all incarnations, big knits in primary colors, Barbie pink nacre coats and dresses. There were a lot of elements in this show that would normally feel quite junior, but at Miu Miu, a playful fashion label adored by style muses the world over, nothing is ever that black and white. Democratization called, they want to tell Miuccia Prada that they approve.
Zadig & Voltaire
This French label is a mix of high street and contemporary, and through the years has molded itself as a go-to for cool, effortless fashion girls who dig a little rock 'n roll flair. This isn't high fashion, just pieces that the young ingenue will want to wear, presented in a way that ignited desire. That is all.